Editor's comments:
Editor Lawrence with wife Azizah and son's Xander and Darius |
If you're like me when you live in a resort area you tend to put off visiting very popular tourist attractions that are normally overcrowded, until the last moment.
After living here for 23 years I finally decided it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit Bali's most famous temple,the mother of all temples for Pura Besakih.
I explained to my family that this may be the only time in our lifetimes that we can visit this temple without it being swamped by tourists.
Reluctantly they agreed to join me on this once-in-a-lifetime venture.
In the end they all agreed that they enjoyed it and were glad that they we came.
Besakih Temple - Pura Besakih
From Wikipedia
The first temple was estimated to have been completed in the 15th-century
Besakih Temple (Balinese: ) is a pura complex in the village of Besakih on the slopes of Mount Agung in eastern Bali, Indonesia.
It is the most important, the largest and holiest temple of Balinese Hinduism and one of a series of Balinese temples.
Perched nearly 1,000 meters up the side of Gunung Agung, it is an extensive complex of 23 separate but related temples with the largest and most important being Pura Penataran Agung.
The temple is built on six levels, terraced up the slope. The entrance is marked by a candi bentar (split gateway), and beyond it the Kori Agung is the gateway to the second courtyard.
History:
The precise origins of the temple are unclear but its importance as a holy site almost certainly dates from prehistoric times.
The stone bases of Pura Penataran Agung and several other temples resemble megalithic stepped pyramids, which date back at least 2,000 years.
It was certainly used as a Hindu place of worship from 1284 when the first Javanese conquerors settled in Bali. By the 15th century, Besakih had become a state temple of the powerful Gelgel dynasty.
Location:
The temple is on the southern slopes of Mount Agung, the principal volcano of Bali.
Architecture:
Meru towers of Pura Besakih
Pura Besakih is a complex made up of twenty-three temples that sit on parallel ridges. It has stepped terraces and flights of stairs which ascend to a number of courtyards and brick gateways that in turn lead up to the main spire or Meru structure, which is called Pura Penataran Agung.
All this is aligned along a single axis and designed to lead the spiritual person upward and closer to the mountain which is considered sacred.
The main sanctuary of the complex is the Pura Penataran Agung. The symbolic center of the main sanctuary is the lotus throne, or padmasana, which is therefore the ritual focus of the entire complex. It dates to around the seventeenth century.
Location Besakih, Karangasem, Bali, Indonesia
Address Besakih, Rendang, Karangasem Regency, Bali 80863
Coordinates 8°22′28″S 115°27′03″ECoordinates: 8°22′28″S 115°27′03″E
A series of eruptions of Mount Agung in 1963, which killed approximately 1,700 people also threatened Pura Besakih.
The lava flows missed the temple complex by mere meters. The saving of the temple is regarded by the Balinese people as miraculous, and a signal from the gods that they wished to demonstrate their power but not destroy the monument the Balinese faithful had erected.
Below are a few photo's taken not necessarily in order of our once-in-a-lifetime visit for the first time in my 23 years of living in Bali.
After waking my two teenage boys, not an easy task at the best of times, and doing 10 laps in the pool we had nice breakfast in the bale by the ocean and then we were off.
Every time I drive out the front gate I'm reminded how beautiful it is just around our area.
There are still rice paddies volcanic and ocean views at Bali Paradise Beach Estates which by the way rentals start as little as $68 per night and sales start as $198,000 .
I I vowed to come here some morning at sunrise and watch the sunrise over these rice paddies.
My beautiful wife Azizah always looks fashionable
The road winds up towards the thousand metre level at the base of towering 3,200 MTR. Mount Agung Volcano.
Parking:
There is no parking at the temple itself but there are so many parking spots along the way which are privately owned. For a small fee of around two dollars you can park your car there.
Then you have to decide if you want to walk the rest of the distance up the hill which is only about a 10 minutes walk.
Alternatively you may hop on the back of a readily available motorbike who will try to charge you 20,000 rupiah.
You can easily knock them down to 10,000 rupiah or roughly $0.70 for a five minute ride.
You will also find some very aggressive women trying to rent or sell you sarongs.
Sarongs are required to be worn around your waist down to your feet when you enter any temple in Bali.
These can be had for as little as RP 10,000 if you want to negotiate.
Entrance Fees:
Visit to the Besakih Temple (Pura Besakih) are subject to an entrance fee of IDR 60,000 IDR per person for adult, and IDR 30,000 IDR per person for kid.
The ticket can be bought at the ticket counter in the parking which located just the entrance gate of Pura Besakih.
Later on at the ticket window we found that sarongs are actually included in the price of the tickets which are very inexpensive.
For locals and for those of us that have working permits here it is only 20,000 rupiah ($1.40)
Be ready for several very desperate hawkers trying to sell you everything from goat to chicken, drinks etc. just before you enter the temple grounds.
Also we were approached by one local who stated that there was a ceremony going on and that you needed a guide to take you around.
Wisely enough after all my many years at the temples I told my family this is not required and we soon discoved that I was right.
But we did run into a gentleman called Wayan, a quite tall man who commanded some respect .
We found out that he was actually a photographer who takes photos and prints them for you.
I talked him into coming with us and to be our guide because it was obvious that he has some power.
It turns out it was a great move because he knew how to take photos even with our Nikon allowing us to get several family group photos together.
He also explained some major features of the temple.
And finally there was the first of the 16 temples.
There was obviously a lot of Balinese performing ceremonies there that day which only added to the overall ambience.
They were all as usual friendly and smiling and probably happy to see tourists for a change.
Then we had Wayan start to shoot photos and there are plenty.
Considering it was not a sunny day and not early in the morning we were pretty happy with the quality.
Photos like this one below of just the two of us with no tourist and no locals are probably a once-in-a-lifetime shot at the busiest temple in Bali. Why I made this effort at this time in my life.
We began to traverse the slopes of Mount Agung to visit the multitude of temples on the way up.
The next one had been recent recently renovated with fabulous gold huge doors that was a photographer's dream.
Again if it was first the morning at sunrise or sunset it would make for some unbelievable photos.It turns out that Azizah had fortunately chosen a golden sarong from her collection to wear with out knowing that it would be perfect for photos in front of this magnificent Golden door.
After another 15 to 20 minutes walking up the slopes of Mount Agung we finally reached the highest temple and one of the oldest "Pura Gelap".
Wayan took some great shots ith my Mobile phone that are surreal.
At this point after a two-year pandemic and hearing that international airports were going to be open soon, plus realizing that in two days later it was going to be the start of the Chinese year of the Tiger which is a year I was born made just want to reach out and thank the Bali God's and the Balinese who created these magnificent temples in the pass thousands of years.
Then it was time to start down the hill past beautiful grass roofed temples that provide a unique landscape not seen any place in the world.
Even the statues that may be as much as a thousand years old made for some Kodak moments.
We then stopped for a fresh coconut and snacks with this view.
Hopefully our 17-year-old son Xander, who has not been feeling well all week will feel a lot better after this magnificent visit to the mother of all temples in Bali .
A A bonus shot at the small Warung where we had our coconut drinks was this beautiful young lady.
I let my family go ahead and took my time to shoot many scenes and people on the way down.
Surprising enough the Balinese were more than interested in having their photos taken.
It's probably been a while during the pandemic and everybody was friendly.
We have all been through some rough times the last two years because Bali depends 85% on tourists.
Practically every person and every family has been affected by the loss of income and uncertain future but yet through all these rough times they still managed to pray and maintain a happy lifestyle.
The Western world has a lot to learn from these people.
I couldn't resist taking a photo of this young boy with his mother. I think I scared him because he started crying shortly thereafter.
Then I noticed a sweet old lady selling drinks. When she looked at me I just couldn't resist even though I was already refreshed.
I asked how much for a small soda and she said 20,000 rupiah. I know the true value is about five or six thousand we settled on 15,000.
That made her day selling to a tourist which is probably the first time in a long time. The smile that I received from her is worth millions of rupiah.
And then finally it was time to head down and return to our beautiful home of on the horizon's.
On the way down a lovely white cat came to be petted by my beautiful wife with her white top and white head band.
Once again although these past two years has been two of the most difficult in my entire career I reminded myself that so long as I can get up in the morning and enjoy sites like this with my wonderful family we are truly blessed to live and prosper on the Island of the Gods.
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